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[personal profile] starlightmasque
I used (and abused) the Laughing Moon 126 pattern, with the gathered bib front.

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This gown was made for my SIL to wear to Costume College this summer, so some of you will be seeing it live in a few months!

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The fabric choice was both horrible and wonderful at the same time. Wonderful because it looks AMAZING-- it's super gorgeous. It has a hot pink warp with a bright turquoise weft and it makes a shimmering lavender color that looks much nicer in person than in pictures. Will I ever use a fabric that photos easily? I don't think so. Also on the wonderful side is my SIL-- a beautiful blue-eyed blonde who rocks this color like you wouldn't believe. That's about it for wonderful. Everything else was shitty! It was warped off grain, went permanently limp with steam, had permanent creases from where it was folded on the bolt, couldn't handle needle punctures without permanent damage, any droplet of water would make a permanent water mark, had to use the bias to make the sleeve/neckline/back ties because it looked really bad the other way, top-stitching looked like ass, no thread on earth matched it, and it just sucked in every way possible. Lucky for this gown the fabric had a pretty face, because it had the shittiest personality!

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I'm not sure yet if I'm a fan of the drop-front gown. I don't like the way it looks where it has to be pinned to the bodice. It looks unfinished to me. Plus, the big old open slashes down the sides I'm not fond of.  I like everything perfectly in place with no room for wardrobe malfunctions. This dress seems to be begging to malfunction at inopportune times. At least I have a few months to address whatever could go wrong. Anyone have and tips and hints for me?

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I can't make anything plain. I just can't. So, I spent way too much time trying to come up with this pleated fan thing border. I looked at hundreds of extant gowns and fashion plates and whatever I tried to mimic, it just didn't look good in person with this fabric. This one looked okay. I really wanted it to be all lavender without any turquoise showing, but finally I just gave up and did it the easy way. WHICH DID NOT END UP EASY AT ALL.

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Pinning the pleat stacks in place--

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Tacking them around the hem--

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Fluffing out the fan shape and tacking them in place--

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Then on to the bigger row, using my scalloped scissors for the edges. (I guess that's another thing for the wonderful pile-- it cut like a dream.)

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Pinned in place above the other row--

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Fanned out and tacked down, then stitched down in strategic places to hold the fan shape. This all took WAY LONGER than I ever expected. I guess I wouldn't be me without seriously underestimating stuff. It was very very time consuming!

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So, that's my first Regency dress. I think it turned out very pretty! Anyone have any ideas what to accessorize it with?




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Date: 2015-04-13 12:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] katanubis.livejournal.com
I think it turned out very pretty too! I actually love the way the turquoise shows on the hem decoration.

Is this instead of the Coronation picture inspiration gowns with all the embroidery on them?

Date: 2015-04-13 03:41 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you, Kat! I did end up liking the alternate color showing, so I'm okay with it now! Nothing ever ends up with the original design!

No, no, I am still making the Court gowns for the Gala-- this is just to wear to classes or breakfast or something!

Date: 2015-04-13 12:24 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kaesha-nikovana.livejournal.com
BE STILL MY HEART. I think I'm in love with that gown! All that time and effort you had to put in to make it look amazing was totally worth it. TOTALLY. WORTH IT.

I think the ties should always be on the bias. Otherwise they end up looking all oddly bunched up like a hem that's done all wrong. Bias is the shiznit, but I understand it can be a major pain in the ass to work with. Yours looks great!

As for something to make the drop front stay in place without pinning, how about covering a shank button with some of the fabric? You can add a buttonhole or a fabric loop (on the bias ;D) and either one would blend in pretty well.

Date: 2015-04-13 12:26 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kaesha-nikovana.livejournal.com
Shank buttonS, rather. One button would only solve half the problem.

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Date: 2015-04-13 12:25 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] llyrafantasyfae.livejournal.com
This dress is breath taking! I did a bib front dress for my white tea gown and I love it. I was super worried about the slit showing also. But if the pleats are placed right it really doesn't show. Plus I had yards in my skirt so there was so much fabric that it really and truly didn't show.
YOu have to teach me how to do that trim. It is so pretty!!

Date: 2015-04-13 03:59 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! I am so used to having very full skirts, this one feels so skimpy! I'm sure it will work out fine-- and you looked MARVELOUS in that white tea gown!

Date: 2015-04-13 12:35 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] atherleisure.livejournal.com
It came out beautifully. I particularly like the way the turquoise shows at the skirt trim; it was what struck me first about the dress so I was amused when I got to the end of the post and found you didn't want it that way.

I haven't had any issues with my drop-front dress, which pins together, though I'll admit I've only worn it a couple of times. On the other hand, I've worn 18th century dresses pinned together quite a few times. Embrace the pins. Somehow they're very freeing. It's great not having to worry about sewing on hooks and eyes or making buttonholes.

Date: 2015-04-13 04:01 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! Sometimes what i end up with is way better than what I wanted originally!

What kind of pins do you use? Just plain straight pins? Safety pins?

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Date: 2015-04-13 12:35 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] hharris.livejournal.com
We definitely have the same taste in color, and at first I thought we had the exact same fabric. But mine is a hot pink warp with bright blue weft. It was also the cheapest, flimsiest silk I'd ever used, and I had all the same complaints about it you do. Soooo glad to be done sewing on that stuff.
She will look stunning!

Date: 2015-04-13 04:05 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! Don't tell anyone, but this is not silk, not at all! SHHHHHHHHH!! I don't want to sink the expense of silk into a gown until I know what I'm doing! I began this having no idea what I was doing, lol.

Date: 2015-04-13 12:47 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ktlovely.livejournal.com

I'm sorry the fabric was an ass, but the dress is freaking amazing!

Date: 2015-04-13 04:05 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! It turned out way better than expected!

Date: 2015-04-13 12:59 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] isabelladangelo.livejournal.com
Absolutely stunning!

Date: 2015-04-13 04:05 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you so much!

Date: 2015-04-13 01:28 am (UTC)
ext_482226: (Default)
From: [identity profile] mandie-rw.livejournal.com
Glorious fabric! (But don't tell the fabric, it'll go to its head!) And trim too.

The only sort-of problem I've ever had with a drop-front Regency is that it can gap open at the sides a little when I'm sitting, but I've only ever noticed that with my blue wool jumper, which has a completely flat front.

Date: 2015-04-13 04:09 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! Mum's the word! It's smug enough already.

I have some time to figure it out-- maybe little snaps or hooks or matching hidden placket or... just let the undies show and not care!

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Date: 2015-04-13 01:37 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sarahlizzi.livejournal.com
It's lovely!!

Date: 2015-04-13 04:09 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you so much!

Date: 2015-04-13 01:49 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] padawansguide.livejournal.com
Wow!!! Gorgeous!

I know the pins seem clumsy but it's totally how they're meant to be worn. I did put in thread belt loops in back to keep the sash up. But honestly everything stayed where it was supposed to and it was very easy to wear.

I LOVE the trim so much, I'm totally copying that sometime!

Also, she needs one of Taylor's collet necklaces to go with it! https://www.etsy.com/shop/damesalamode

Or even just pearls!

Date: 2015-04-13 04:12 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you, Maggie! You looked so awesome in your gown, it's what made me pull out this pattern and get busy!

The trim is simple in theory, time consuming in reality!

Oh, yes, COLLET NECKLACE!
Edited Date: 2015-04-13 04:10 pm (UTC)

Date: 2015-04-13 01:56 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jaelie.livejournal.com
I love the colors so much! I have color-envy!

If you want to get day and evening wear out of it, make some long sleeves for it and a chemisette for day, and over the elbow white gloves for the evening. For head wear, a turban with feathers is a cheaty-easy fix (and it hides modern hair), and they wore turbans in the day and evening. They even had one type of "turban" that is more like our modern understanding of a beret, which would also work and be equally simple.
Edited Date: 2015-04-13 01:58 am (UTC)

Date: 2015-04-13 02:05 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jaelie.livejournal.com
This is an old blog entry, but I really love the Oregon Regency Society's blog, especially for basic stuff. http://oregonregency.blogspot.com/2010/03/regency-ladys-turban.html

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Date: 2015-04-13 02:23 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] jubilima.livejournal.com
Soooooo pretty! Accessorize with pearls and a white feather fan. :)

Date: 2015-04-13 04:16 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! I loves me some pearls!

Date: 2015-04-13 02:25 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] koshka-the-cat.livejournal.com

Oooh! That trim!

Date: 2015-04-13 04:16 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
It turned out really well, I think!

Date: 2015-04-13 02:33 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] m-of-disguise.livejournal.com
Oooo, it's stunning! I love the colour, and that trim is FABULOUS. OMG, please do a tutorial for that trim, I want to put it on everything.

Date: 2015-04-13 04:18 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! The trim was pretty easy-- even if time consuming-- you can see what I did in the pics above-- but maybe *cough*when I have time*cough* I can make a mini tutorial! (But there must be one already made out there somewhere? Yes? I can't possibly be the first.)

Date: 2015-04-13 03:41 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] bauhausfrau.livejournal.com
It looks gorgeous! I can't believe that's your first Regency. :P

Date: 2015-04-13 04:19 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! I can't believe it, either. I like making regencies! They are still fancy, and yet way easier than Robe a la Francaise. Win! I have several more in my immediate future, so I'm looking forward to being more confident in them!

Date: 2015-04-13 04:45 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] rose-bertin.livejournal.com
This is absolutely gorgeous!!! I love it!!! And I need the trim asap!

Date: 2015-04-13 04:47 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you, Katy! The trim turned out way better than expected!

Date: 2015-04-13 04:55 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] tsuruko-sensei.livejournal.com
It's gorgeous!

Date: 2015-04-13 05:02 am (UTC)

Date: 2015-04-13 11:21 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] newgarb.livejournal.com
Gorgeous! Gloves and bling! Cant wait for more!

Date: 2015-04-13 01:32 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you so much!

Date: 2015-04-13 11:46 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] ghost-ofa-rose.livejournal.com
Love love love the fabric!!! Thats is gorgeous! And I love the trims! The fan shape is so wonderful. I need to learn how to do that. And I actually quite like the turquoise showing in the trims.
Edited Date: 2015-04-13 11:52 am (UTC)

Date: 2015-04-13 01:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! It's not quite as "wild" without the flash, but it is still super pretty! I have grown to love the peeks of turquoise, too!

Date: 2015-04-13 12:52 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] chocolatepot.livejournal.com
I was like, ooh, very nice, and then I scrolled down a bit more and sew the hem decoration. VERY VERY NICE!

I wouldn't worry about wardrobe malfunctions, it looks pretty stable.

Date: 2015-04-13 01:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! You can hardly see the Velcro and zippers at all! *wink*wink*

Date: 2015-04-13 01:43 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] darthcynthia.livejournal.com
I can definitely understand misbehaving fabric. It's hard enough sometimes, finding exactly what you want (probably why I haven't used prints much and stick to solids), much less the annoyance of it behaving so it becomes what was in your head, But, that said, what beautiful color and I looooove the trim!

Date: 2015-04-13 02:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you so much!

Bad fabric is the WORST! But, what can you do? Money already gone, heart already set, just have to make it work!

Date: 2015-04-13 03:22 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] theladyrebecca.livejournal.com
That is absolutely gorgeous!!! Can you go into any more detail about how you did the pleated fan thing? If I find myself with a lot of patience at some point, I think I want to try it. Also, where did you find scalloped fabric scissors?

Date: 2015-04-13 03:50 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you so much! So many people are asking about the trim, I think at this point I must make a small tutorial for it!

The scissors were a Christmas gift from my husband several years ago-- expensive but worth every penny. They are quality instruments and cut beautiful scallops when the fabric cooperates! Some fabric needs fray check or interfacing to be able to cut cleanly, but this fabric I just worked with cut like a dream!

http://www.japanwoodworker.com/Product/156315/9-Gold-1-Scalloped-Pinking-Shears.aspx

Date: 2015-04-13 06:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] mala-14.livejournal.com
SO GORGEOUS! I love it! The trim looks awesome! You are a sewing superstar!

Date: 2015-04-13 08:16 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Thank you! I'm a little rusty, but I'll get it back!

Date: 2015-04-13 10:18 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] dragonfly-sidhe.livejournal.com
It makes me cry, it's so beautiful! And seriously, that shot silk makes those fans look amazing. I adore how the blue comes through.

Date: 2015-04-13 10:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
Aw, thank you so much! Don't tell anyone, but it's not silk! Just dumb old polyester. But I love it anyway!

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Date: 2015-04-14 02:29 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cavaliermom.livejournal.com
You are my creative goddess. And I may get to wear a turban too? Fabulous! Looked at the necklace site referenced above, and this one is amazing:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/208049966/pink-opal-necklace-statement-necklace?ref=shop_home_active_1&ga_search_query=collet

Date: 2015-04-14 02:42 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] starlightmasque.livejournal.com
All kinds of stuff is going to go on your head during CoCo! Turbans, feathers, tiaras, the works!

OMG that would be sooooo pretty! I love opal-type stuff! (The gal who makes those is really quite a great person, too!)
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