Beige bodice NEVERMORE

Jul. 26th, 2017 04:14 pm
mandie_rw: (Default)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I'm even tired of the word "beige" at this point, sheesh. But I'm quite happy with how it came out, and I think it looks loads better than the Ugly Shirtwaist! (Which won't be retired, like, ever, because it's great for hot weather. But now at least I have another option.)

Blog post here
sitting on steps
Amusingly, there was a truck JUST out of frame in all these pics...they were setting up for some sort of event, and there was an enormous truck and trailer just to the left side of the house. And half my pics had some rando in a red t-shirt walking back and forth in the background. Ahhh, gotta love editing! xD

And now I am totally going to be late to work because I wanted to get this all out of the way before I went! Heh.

things

Jul. 25th, 2017 10:27 pm
mandie_rw: (1860ssunset)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
- At this point in time, I feel moved to almost offer my condolences to those of you going to Costume College; you guys seem so stressed! (Not all of you...but a lot.) I guess when you're a veteran it's worth it...? but as someone who's never been, it sounds pretty miserable at this point!

- Beige print bodice of never-ending-ness and its silly cuffs are done, although not in time to get pics today. Hurray! This damn thing's dragged on waaaaay too long (long enough that I'm tired of the bottom half before I ever got to wear the top half!).

- I've gotten fairly tired of my red spoon bonnet (yes, I'm still keeping Gettysburg in mind, even as I work on Belvidere); after all, I've been wearing it since 2011! I still love the color (shocking I know), but it was a synthetic, albeit a decent one, and it's fairly crap construction-wise, involving a polyester lining and even *gasp* glue. I know. 2011 was a long time ago. *grin* But I sternly told myself I wasn't allowed to replace it unless I sold it off first. Amazingly, somebody bought it (actually two somebodies tried to buy it), and I sent it off today. So that'll just about pay for the two yards of taffeta to cover and trim the new one! Well, it'll be two yards if I go with the navy option, as I would trim that in pink...but I keep coming back to a brick red and copper shot that's baaaaasically the same color as the bonnet I just got rid of! I might have a fixation on dark reds, you guys.

(The solution here is obviously to make two bonnets. Ha ha ha.)

Or no new hat...

Jul. 25th, 2017 04:35 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I was enjoying working on the hat last night, and then I wasn't. So I decided I was done, and I'm wearing the antique hat.

With that, I'm ready for Costume College!

Generational introspection

Jul. 24th, 2017 09:58 pm
carmenbeaudry: (Default)
[personal profile] carmenbeaudry
Nothing like going through old family pictures with your mother and your daughter to make one introspective. In no particular order:

My mother is old. I have known and internalised this fact for many years, however she is now starting to have trouble remembering, losing things and other cognative problems. Nothing horribly major, but enough to notice. It struck me today that I have had many mothers throughout the years, as her life and mine changed and our relationship changed with time. The mother that I had in high school no longer exists except in my memory. The mother that helped to raise my children, the mother that then moved across the state when my sister's children were born, those are gone, too. The mother I have now is in some ways easier to deal with than those others, but then, I suspect that the me she's dealing with now is much easier than the sulky teen or the harassed young mother.

I am still in mourning for the loss of previous generations of my family. Not so much my grandparents and great-grandparents, but looking at old pictures of the 8 siblings of my grandmother's generation and realizing that only one is still alive, made me choke up. I miss my great-aunts. Because of generational overlap between my mother and her aunts and uncles, they were always more like her siblings, and therefor my aunts and uncles, rather than greats.

My daughter is an amazingly capable woman. I don't think I was ever as capable even before I became disabled. She is truly a force of nature.

I need my home, my husband, my dog and my friends. The last week has been difficult in ways I never anticipated. My sister and brother-in-law have a lovely home, I enjoyed spending time with Mama, and when they go on vacation again I will come and stay with her. But, it takes a toll on me.

beige bodice, one more time

Jul. 24th, 2017 11:46 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I thought I was almost done...but then as I was ironing the pleats of voile for the white collar, it occurred to me that I ought to have cuffs as well! Damn. Wish it hadn't occurred to me, haha. I could make plain ones, but I know that pleated ones to match the collar (and the upper side of the dress fabric cuffs, for that matter) will look better. Okay, okay...

It's supposed to be in the low 80s tomorrow and Wednesday, so I'll gussy up and get photos one of those days (it might rain tomorrow so I can't promise tomorrow). And then I can wad the whole thing up into my 19thc costume bin and be done with it, whew! It's been hanging around for far too long. And then back to the dinner dress! I think.

What a weekend

Jul. 24th, 2017 09:46 pm
chocolatepot: (Default)
[personal profile] chocolatepot
Used my extra day off well! Finished gathering up the skirt and whipped it on - deliciously rewarding, I want to gauge everything in the future - sewed all the basic seams in the petticoat, and cut out the paper pattern pieces for the bathing suit and bathing coat. (Then I got to fold them all up again and put them in their envelope! I love folding pattern pieces.) I tried out a few hem feet: the tiniest one just doesn't work, like it's too heavy for the feed dogs to move the fabric, and the regular hemming attachments are missing the screw that holds them to the foot. Eventually I realized I could take a screw out of my electric machine (they cost, like, $5 on Amazon with Prime - less without, but more with the shipping, so) but by that point I was settled into cutting paper instead.

Did a little FFC shopping, for 100% cotton shirting so that I know what I'm getting. Wanted to get silk crepe de chine to make a slip that fits me better, but frankly I know I am not at the level where it makes sense to spend ~$40+ on lingerie fabric ... cotton voile will do for now. I was planning to use VeraVenus's free (1930s?) slip pattern, but that seems like a nightmare to fit to my body, so now I'm sucked into an Etsy whirlwind of vintage patterns, weighing better prices against closer sizing.

It was wonderfully cold and rainy, just like October. Something* smells musty in my apartment, and that's bad, but at the same time the smell means it isn't hot and I love that.

* I'm 95% sure it's the bolt of muslin I got from Sue, because it came out of her mother's storage/attic

Hat...

Jul. 24th, 2017 04:47 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
The suffragette hat frame is done. I had to do the curved part of the crown twice since I set it too low the first time. I think it's going to work. It's at that awkward stage where your hair isn't done and the opening isn't lined and the buckram base has awful stitches, but it's promising!

(no subject)

Jul. 24th, 2017 02:53 pm
theladyrebecca: (Default)
[personal profile] theladyrebecca
Everything for CoCo is finished(ish). I tried on the finished Belle dress for the first time last night, and there's a weird baggy section in the center of the back. So I'm trying to decide if I want to redo the zipper in that one section to take it in. I think it will depend on how much free time I wind up having this evening. I opted to work late to get more hours, which means I'll likely only have less than an hour at home before my audition. And then I'll probably be home at about 8pm, and since I have to wake up between 2am-2:30 to get to the airport, I should go to bed right away. So basically, right now I'm leaning towards not fixing it. 

I also made the stupid mistake of leaving an uncapped highlighter on my sewing table last night, and it spent the night touching one of the ties on the vintage apron I'm wearing for Belle. I tried bleaching it this morning, which lightened it, but did not make it go away. I'm going to try oxyclean when I get home. 

And I still need to pack some of my regular outfit stuff, for Disney, Thurs, and next Monday. Then the very last stuff I won't be able to pack till tomorrow morning. But I did most of it over the weekend, including driving over an hour to Everett, so that my roommate could bring down the bigger and less packable things for me. So glad she drives down!

Holiday!

Jul. 24th, 2017 10:58 am
frualeydis: (Default)
[personal profile] frualeydis
 Today I'm off for six days in the countryside, staying with my stepdad at the house where I lived from 11 to 19. it's me, Rickard, Maja and a friend of Maja's and I think we'll have a good time, despite the weather forecast predicting some rain and less sun than the last weeks. That won't stop me from bathing in lake Vänern, or walking in the woods - and definitely not from going to a big market on Wednesday.

I'm bringing cut out pieces for an Italian renaissance smock for Valeria, and my blue regency gown to embroider on. 

Back on Saturday or Sunday - see you then!

Cleves approaches

Jul. 24th, 2017 04:56 am
glittersweet: (Default)
[personal profile] glittersweet

I was going to do a lot of machine sewing to get her ready for Coronation so I instead took the time I had to sew by hand. Some of it went really welll, some like the haube is fiddly because the accessories are just not the way we are used to. I need to make my haube tie and also make sure all the gathers are near the crown. I may wind up pleating on my head form instead.


There may even be time to get pearls on the partlet. What is weird is I have a very long neck so I can wear my collar and show the full band of gold.


 


Okay, I now have my second lot of antibiotics 9note, not for the flu but for the secondary bacterial infection I have had since day two of the flu!)

Grace & Frankie marathon here

Jul. 23rd, 2017 10:06 am
chocolatepot: (Default)
[personal profile] chocolatepot
Skirt is mostly gauged! I need a smaller hoop to wear with it, though (unsurprising, since the pattern is technically from the early 1850s if not late 1840s) (but still, damn that 55"-wide fabric) ... I'll be starching my petticoats for next weekend and it will probably look "not terrible". At some point, I'm going to put three flounces on the skirt, which will help. Don't know if I'd say that I'm looking forward to Civil War Weekend, but at least I'm not dreading it due to costume unfinishedness.

I also cut out the yoke and flounces for a very ruffly '50s "Mexican-style" petticoat, and pinned the basic seams. The flounces are all circular, and like an idiot I cut the wider flounce circles all the way through instead of just halfway. ಠ_ಠ Right now my docket is looking like:

- finish 1850s dress
- make ruffly petticoat
- 1950s bathing suit
- second petticoat, less ruffly? (maybe a narrower one to replace slip layer)
- then finally new 1950s dress

I'd kind of like to make two bathing suits before we go to Cape Cod in September (Dad was like "hey when would be good for you to go?" and I was like "we have to do it for my birthday because if I stay at home by myself for my 30th birthday it's just going to be REALLY PATHETIC"), but I'd rather try out the whole "woven bathing suit with a zipper" concept before I completely commit to it.

When I do get to the new dress, bearing in mind that I have to do a FBA, should I make a shirtdress, a pretty pattern I haven't tried before with gathery darts below the bust, or revisit a pattern that has worked for me in the past (the version I have now is a bit big)? I can't decide.

---

I'm getting burnt out on the Emerging Museum Professionals and Non-Profit Happy Hour Facebook groups. I mean, all Facebook stuff in general, but those two groups are draining - so much venting, and they also have a tendency to become a parody of social justice, being incredibly snarky and dismissive of institutions that need interns (and I could understand if there was more substantial discussion of what constitutes an unethical internship and what's volunteering, but instead it's just ranting about how "you shouldn't have workers you can't pay") and coming up with ideas about hiring solely based on resumés (but not their formatting or spelling or way of describing things). At least Costume People, while being ranty, manages to also actually discuss issues.

Fort Mott Boer War Event

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:10 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
Second Boer War, to be specific.

(The Facebook event just said "Boer War", mind you, with no dates. Apparently this is colloquial for the second war...but as 1/ we didn't know this til yesterday as that's when the park put up the event description, and 2/ none of us have c.1900 summer dresses anyway...we cheerfully assumed it was the first war in the early 1880s, as that's what we have clothes for. As assumed...nobody cared. *grin*)
boer war 1
Read more... )

Robin's flickr album here

Save

sweating my tits off

Jul. 23rd, 2017 08:23 pm
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[personal profile] robinsnest
Apparently there is a Fort at the tip of NJ named Fort Mott. I just learned this as somehow via the magic of Facebook [personal profile] mandie_rw , [personal profile] miss_philomena , [personal profile] hiraimi and I found and ended up at a Boer War reenactment there today. Now the even just said "Boer war and Victorian something something something" so I googled Boer war and went "perfect I have 1880s"...Guess who didn't tell Robin there are apparently TWO Boer wars. Cause if you're gonna get in a fight over something the british like to do it twice. 100 years war, revolution and war of 1812, WWI and WWII....luckily for us no one disowned us for wearing our 1880s natural form dresses.
Untitled




 
I of course got a bit turned around when picking Alice up so we were a few min late, I think Amanda and Adrienne saw the entire event in the 20 min for us to catch up...oops. I did a quick change in the parking lot, much to the stares of the family BBQ. *ahem excuse me as I drop my skirt. yes I'm wearing bloomers*




We got there just in time to huff it up the walls of the fort to watch the "battle." I know I know the military half of this isn't MY personal jam but I'd rather you just did a weapons demo, because a battle of five vs 10 is still pretty silly looking unrealistic. After a 5 min battle in which the Boer's won we promptly left the hot pavement in search of shade and the picnic lunch we had packed.




Luckily for us our friend Mick was there (of Belvidere fame) and we pretty much parked our butts under his tent fly for the rest of the event, sans one quick run to the loo where a probably 8 year old girl was DETERMINED to get some quality first person reenactment experience.


"Are you waiting for the men to come home?"
"What men?"
"But are you waiting for the men to come home?"
"No I'm going to the loo..."

This dress was always intended to have more trim, so as a way of making myself work on things for September BEFORE said month I tried to get more of the trim put on this time. I also got the overskirt made, but only partially trimmed. And I have to say I'm HUGELY pleased with how it turned out.
Untitled


Left on the list is the brown band and top row of ruffle on the overskirt, if there's yardage left I want to add more fullness to the back of the overskirt, I cut it way to skimpy to try and leave enough for trim. I also either need to lose weight or add a placket in the front and move the hooks and eyes over in the bust as it's pulling and gapping and that's bad. oh and bone the bodice. okay I guess it's a long list still...never ending.

I did manage to sweat through everything. It was only in the 80s but with humidity to rival Louisiana, easily one of the hottest times I've gone out in costume. but I always think of myself as someone who does horribly badly in heat and I've done several hot weather things recently and been really proud of how well I did. I loaded up with water the day before, drank tons the day of, and ta-da I survived!

Definitely the Brunswick!

Jul. 23rd, 2017 03:28 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
So, I pulled out the Brunswick, tried it on (sort of, no corset or anything) and remembered the super tight sleeves. Hmph. So, instead of doing the sensible thing and getting something else out, I spent I think about three hours redoing the sleeves. It was fairly easy, just fiddly. Strangely, the upper sleeve was much easier than the lower sleeves, which are just basted in. Those had practically no seam allowance which made it weird. The sleeves all have lapped seams now instead of the original types they had. It's much easier to sew a lapped seam on a set sleeve and a sleeve with almost no seam allowance.

Then I packed and noticed it was three and I hadn't really eaten anything and *thud*

Cleves gown made

Jul. 23rd, 2017 10:25 pm
glittersweet: (Default)
[personal profile] glittersweet

My Anna von Kleve Julich & Berg gown is done aside from some hooks and eyes in the skirt.


The bodice and sleeves fit nicely but I am ver narrow, and after the flu moreso… so today I get to hunt for all the wool shoulderpads I can as I will need enhancement.


The hanging sleeves are finally hemmed, woohoo, and the chemise just needs a button and some seam finishing (the sleeves were french seamed originally and so I need to just tidy a few inches between the cuffs and up the arm. I really want to take some excess linen out but will leave that until I’ve worn it a few times. The sleeves look so pretty though and will make a lot of garb look really good. And I know what my nest two frocks are 🙂 So excited.


So it may be that I will have to use a lot of cunning machine work in my velvet Cologne so that I can actually get her done 🙂


And I may be able to get my documentation for her up fairly soon. But I want the Spanish stuff up first as a handy practical guide 🙂


And I’d like to get all my garb patterns webified especially with so many lovely extant patterns out there now to use as references and (please buy these!!!)


 


I do have my haube. I may use my machine and then hand stitch over the top. That’s how I did my belt. The machine acted like basting which is hidden by gold braid. So I’m just waiting to hear back from some people who want to see this in the next few days and then I can have a proper rest and start collection info for my final workshop 🙂


Oh and my jeweled neckline. That’s a lining. Same with my frontal decoration on my stickelsche.


 


Ah yes. The three panel skirt pattern too.

More regency

Jul. 23rd, 2017 11:15 pm
frualeydis: (Default)
[personal profile] frualeydis
So, aside from taking in my stays and making a new bonnet (that needs to be lined, so to not snag my hair) I have sewn the skirt of my blue gown together, hemmed it, and started on an embroidery around the hem. The pattern for the embroidery is from the cap of my folk costume, which is dated to the late 18th or early 19th century.




I was lazy this time and just cut the place mat to shape, instead of unraveling the braid and shaping it while sewing.
The blue colour is seen in several late 18th-early 19th century pictures, though then probably made from silk, and not from cotton. Inspiration for embroidering it was gowns like this, with a dark background and colourful embroidery.


Which of course is silk, and has a much more rich and complicated embroidery. But I think my gown will look pretty with its cotton embroidery. The pattern I use is the same as on the cap of my folk costume, which is roughly from this period.

I have also bought material for another bonnet: a braided place mat and a cotton satin sheet that was reduced by 70%. It will be enough to make a summer spencer too.



The other gowns I plan are to made from a saree that hasn't arrived yet, and from this printed thin cotton:



The bonnet with purple cotton satin is of course intended to be worn with that gown.

I also bought these shoes on sale yesterday, and though the metal details aren't to my liking, I think they will do. Especially after I've painted over the brass ;)








beige bodice again, again

Jul. 22nd, 2017 11:57 pm
mandie_rw: (naturalform1)
[personal profile] mandie_rw
I was pretty lazy as regards sewing today...I could have gotten the bodice all finished if I'd really tried, but...didn't. xD Tonight I tried it on, "it's really almost done! just need to finish the neck! I could totally wear this tomorrow!", but only had it on for about 35 seconds before I remembered why I wasn't pushing myself to finish and wear it tomorrow. Hot! (The sewing room is un-air-conditioned, and it's still 82 at midnight. Shirtwaist 'tis!)

So I just need to put a facing in the neck edge - Bodice Take 1 had a collar, but that collar doesn't fit anymore, plus the fit of the neck at the back is just a wee bit funky still, and it's a lot more obvious with a collar on. I did a brief survey of my books, and it looks like a ton of early 1880s had just a white collar, rather than a dress-collar-and-white-collar combo. So I have zero qualms about doing a plain finish! (I could pipe it, but I don't want to and you can't make me.) I do still have to make a white collar to tack in, unless the one from my blue wool 1878 dress will work. Don't think it will as that's a v-neckline and this one is much higher, but we'll see.



(no subject)

Jul. 22nd, 2017 04:55 pm
chocolatepot: (Default)
[personal profile] chocolatepot
I put the piping on the lower edge of the bodice!



It's so funny, the idea of piping always completely intimidated me before I made my dress for the Hallowedding and I never bothered to actually try it (not that I had done that much Victorian sewing before then, anyway, but). My Cranford dress has this awkward, bulky hem at the bottom of the bodice, because I thought that would be easier than piping! I should write a blog post on that. Fortunately, the piping - and the bulk of the gathering folded up under the piping - helps to hold out the front panel, which was all squirrelly and didn't want to stay flat. Unfortunately, it's somehow ended up with much less of a point than I wanted ... which seems to be a regular occurrence with me. Possibly because I have a tendency to forget that it's not enough to just increase side-to-side for a large bust, but also to make the bodice longer.

I'm going to set aside balancing the skirt for now (I have a three-day weekend since I'm working next Saturday, I've got the time) and think about using that petticoat booklet after dinner to cut out one or two. My nylon tulle one is just stifling, so I hate wearing it, and anyway holes are developing in various places. But because of the need for flounces/ruffles, this means *sigh* learning to use my hemming foot and ruffler attachment, both of which terrify me. And I recognize the obvious parallel in the previous paragraph ... I just need to learn to do it, but it feels impossible.

Extant Gowns I adore

Jul. 22nd, 2017 09:56 pm
glittersweet: (Default)
[personal profile] glittersweet

 


Mantua, V&A Museum, London



  • Place of origin:  Spitalfields (textile, weaving) England (mantua, sewing)

  • Date: ca. 1720 (weaving)  1720-1730 (sewing)

  • Artist/Maker: Unknown

  • Materials and Techniques: Silk, silk thread, silver-gilt thread; hand-woven brocading, hand-sewn.

  • Museum number: T.88 to C-1978

  • Gallery location: In Storage

  • Interactive full views


I am not sure if the petticoat and front are original, if they are it’s a lovely example of a non matching set.  There are a handful of these early mantua that are extant. The very delicate colour choices of pale blue and silver would have made this stand out in candlelight.

Costume College!

Jul. 22nd, 2017 02:11 pm
koshka_the_cat: (Default)
[personal profile] koshka_the_cat
I think I have a lineup for Costume College! Took me long enough...

Thursday--Beach pajamas, 100% done

Friday Day--Suffragette day dress. Technically 100%, but I want a new hat and new sash, neither of which are mandatory. I have my daisy votes for women ribbon, red, white, and blue one, original button, and a reproduction banner. I really want to make the hat though because I came up with the pattern myself and really want to see how it goes together.

Friday night--Suffragette evening dress. 100%. I'm worried about forgetting to pack the tattoo. After last year forgetting all my jewelry...

Saturday day--Checked Brunswick. I just moved the neck button on my cotton habit shirt that I made about a zillion years ago. I tried on that and the linen shirt I made to go with it in 2013. Not only did the older one fit better, which is a little embarrassing, none of the ruffles were torn off. And the neck button needed to be moved on the linen one too, so easy choice.

Saturday night--Beaded Regency. Another technically 100% because it's done and wearable, but I want the pink springed corset which is almost done.

Sunday day--1790s bird dress. Yes, I just wore it, but I love the construction and birds.

And nicely, these aren't, except for the Brunswick, large costumes. So I'm hoping through strategic packing to have room for large amounts of stash. I've also decided to bring thing things I want to sell. I may be nice, but I'm not giving away 7 yards of silk brocade I'll never use. Either way, I'm freeing up lots of space. Now, time, is another thing! But my leftover stash is pretty much sorted, so it'll just be determining what's free and what's not...

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